Robin Hood bag : the pattern

I am happy to share the pattern for the Robin Hood bag with you.
Designing this bag was a challenge for me, I enjoyed every minute of it! So I hope to see lots of Robin Hood bags soon!

De Nederlandstalige versie vind je : hier.

Info

– Crochet pattern for a  Robin Hood tas that can be used as : knitting bag, swimming bag, sports bag, ……
– Measurements of the bag : 45 cm high (18 inches) , diameter of the sides is 20-21 cm. (8-8,4 inches)
– Yarn : Scheepjeswol Roma Hidde : 3 skeins brown (7), 2 skeins dark brown (8), 1 skein green (55) and 1 skein camel (51).
– Crochet hook : 5,5 mm (the bag is crocheted tightly, to create a dense fabric)
– Used stitches : magic ring, slipstitch (slst), single crochet (sc). I use US crochet terms.
– Gauge : 13sc x 16-17 rows = 10 x 10 cm or 4 inches
– You also need : 2 D-rings (of rectangle rings or square rings or O-rings). I used D-rings : 1-1/4 inch. You also need a solid sharable zipper : 40 or 45 cm long (16 or 18 inches long) Option : if you want to line the bag : fabric. I used cotton fabric. (measurements : you should be able to cut out 2 rounds with 22 cm diameter and 1 rectangle piece 69 cm x 47 cm (27,6 by 188 inches). I also used Vlieseline on the fabric : Vlieseline H250, same measurements as my fabric.
– Crochet chart : a crochet chart is added for the arrow motif. (pay attention : center part between lower and upper part of the arrows has LESS rows in the chart than actually crocheted rows, to keep chart structured).

Pattern

INFO :                        – the bag is worked in separate pieces : you start with the 2 round sides. Next the body of the bag is worked, with the arrows motif crocheted in it. Afterwards you finish the arrows completely. Next you put the zipper in by hand. Next the flaps for the rings are made, and you attach them to the body of the bag. Now it is time to close the bag by attaching both sides to the center part. You work some lovely piping around it as well. You finish with the large strap.

 Sides

info :
– make 2 identical sides.
– you work in rounds. Every round is closed IN the first sc.
DO NOT TURN. Just continue crocheting in the same direction after closing a round.
1ch DOES NOT count as 1sc. Work the first sc IN the first stitch, where ch is as well.
 – Round 1 : Form magic ring and work in the ring: 1ch and 8sc. Close. (8sc)
 – Round 2 : 1ch, 2sc in every sc : 16sc. Close. (16sc)
 – Round 3 : 1ch, (1sc in 1sc, 2sc in next sc) x 8 : 24sc. Close. (24sc)
 – Round 4 : 1ch, (1sc in 2sc, 2sc in next sc) x 8 : 32sc. Close. (32sc)
 – Round 5 : 1ch, (1sc in 3sc, 2sc in next sc) x 8 : 40sc. Close. (40sc)
 – Round 6 : 1ch, (1sc in 4sc, 2sc in next sc) x 8 : 48sc. Close. (48sc)
 – Round 7 : 1ch, 1sc in every sc : 48sc. Close. (48sc)
 – Round 8 : 1ch, (1sc in 5sc, 2sc in next sc) x 8 : 56sc. Close. (56sc)
 – Round 9 : 1ch, (1sc in 6sc, 2sc in next sc) x 8 : 64 v. Close. (64sc)
 – Round 10 : 1ch, (1sc in 7sc, 2sc in next sc) x 8 : 72sc. Close. (72sc)
 – Round 11 : 1ch, (1sc in 8sc, 2sc in next sc) x 8 : 80sc. Close. (80sc)
 – Round 12 : 1ch, 1sc in every sc : 80sc. Close. (80sc)
– Cut yarn and cast off.

 Body of the bag

info :
– you start working in rounds, but soon you continue working in rows! Main part is worked in rows, and you end with a few rounds again.
– When working rows : turn after each row.
 – 1ch DOES NOT count as 1sc. First sc is worked IN first stitch, where 1ch is as well.
 – CHANGING COLOURS :
– When changing from colour A to colour B : already make last pull through of last stitch with colour A already with colour B, to make a nice transition.
– working the arrows in different colours : I prefer to work the non-used colour thread ‘along’ (the back on the right side, along the front on the wrong side). This means you insert your crochet hook not only in 2 loops of the next stitch, but also under the non-used colour thread. Make sure this thread has a nice tension : not too loose, not too tight. After the third arrow motif repeat, when you change from dark brown to brown again, I work dark brown along for 1 more stitch, and next I leave this thread just hanging there until the next row. When working the next row, you can very easily pick this thread up again.
– Bottom part of the arrow is worked in dark brown. Upper parts in green.
– The ‘arrow line’ and the colour accents in the upper arrow parts are worked separately afterwards.
– Round 1 : Chain 80, close with slst in first ch. Make sure chain is not twisted. Do not turn. Work 1ch and 1sc in every ch : 80sc. Close round with slst in first sc, turn. (80sc)
– Round 2 : 1ch, 1sc in every sc : 80sc. Close and turn. (80sc)
– Row 3 : From now on work in ROWS. This means NO MORE CLOSING, and you TURN after each row. Work 1ch, 1sc in 79sc, leave last sc unworked, turn. (79sc)
– Row 4 – 10 : 1ch, 1sc in 79sc, turn. (79sc)
– Row 11 : START BOTTOM PARTS ARROWS : 1ch, 1sc in 19sc, * change to dark brown and work 1sc in dark brown, change to brown again and work 1sc in 19sc, repeat from * 2 more times, turn.
– Row 12 : 1ch, 1sc in 18sc, * change to dark brown : 1sc in 3sc, change to brown : 1sc in 17sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last sc, turn.
– Row 13 : 1ch, 1sc in 17sc, * change to dark brown : 1sc in 5sc, change to brown : 1sc in 15sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 2sc, turn.
– Row 14 : 1ch, 1sc in 16sc, * change to dark brown : 1sc in 7sc, change to brown : 1sc in 13sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 3sc, turn.
– Row 15 : 1ch, 1sc in 15sc, * change to dark brown : 1sc in 9sc, change to brown : 1sc in 11sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 4sc, turn.
– Row 16 : 1ch, 1sc in 14sc, * change to dark brown : 1sc in 11sc, change to brown : 1sc in 9sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 5sc, turn.
– Row 17 : 1ch, 1sc in 13sc, * change to dark brown : 1sc in 13sc, change to brown : 1sc in 7sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 6sc, turn.
– Row 18 : 1ch, 1sc in 12sc, * change to dark brown : 1sc in 15sc, change to brown : 1sc in 5sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 7sc, turn.
– Row 19-20 : Repeat row 18. Cut dark brown thread. Continue with brown. END BOTTOM PART ARROWS.
– Row 21 – 40 : 1ch, 1sc in 79sc, turn. (20 rows!)
– Row 41 : START UPPER PART ARROWS : 1ch, 1sc in 18sc, * change to green : 1sc in 3sc, change to brown : 1sc in 17sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last sc, turn.
– Row 42 : repeat row 41.
– Row 43 : 1ch, 1sc in 17sc, * change to green : 1sc in 5sc, change to brown : 1sc in 15sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 2 v, turn.
– Row 44 : 1ch, 1sc in 16sc, * change to green : 1sc in 7sc, change to brown : 1sc in 13sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 3 v, turn.
– Row 45 : 1ch, 1sc in 15sc, * change to green : 1sc in 9v, change to brown : 1sc in 11sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 4 v, turn.
– Row 46 : 1ch, 1sc in 14sc, * change to green : 1sc in 11sc, change to brown : 1sc in 9v, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 5 v, turn.
– Row 47 : 1ch, 1sc in 13sc, * change to green : 1sc in 13sc, change to brown : 1sc in 7sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 6 v, turn.
– Row 48 – 50 : Repeat row 47.
– Row 51 : 1ch, 1sc in 13sc, * change to green : 1sc in 6sc, change to brown : 1sc in 1sc, change to green : 1sc in 6sc, change to brown : 1sc in 7sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 6sc, turn.
– Row 52 : 1ch, 1sc in 13sc, * change to green : 1sc in 5sc, change to brown : 1sc in 3sc, change to green : 1sc in 5sc, change to brown : 1sc in 7sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 6sc, turn.
– Row 53 : 1ch, 1sc in 13sc, * change to green : 1sc in 4sc, change to brown : 1sc in 5sc, change to green : 1sc in 4sc, change to brown : 1sc in 7sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 6sc, turn.
– Row 54 : 1ch, 1sc in 13sc, * change to green : 1sc in 3sc, change to brown : 1sc in 7sc, change to green : 1sc in 3sc, change to brown : 1sc in 7sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 6sc, turn.
– Row 55 : 1ch, 1sc in 13sc, * change to green : 1sc in 2sc, change to brown : 1sc in 9v, change to green : 1sc in 2sc, change to brown : 1sc in 7sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 6sc, turn.
– Row 56 : 1ch, 1sc in 13sc, * change to green : 1sc in 1sc, change to brown : 1sc in 11sc, change to green : 1sc in 1sc, change to brown : 1sc in 7sc, repeat from * 2 more times, 1sc in last 6sc, turn. Cut green thread. Cotinue further with brown. END UPPER PART ARROWS.
– Row 57-63 : 1ch, 1sc in 79sc, turn. (79sc) At the end of row 63 : 1ch. Close the bag by working 1slst  in first sc, turn.
– Round 64 : 1ch, 1sc in 80sc, close round in first sc, turn. (80sc)
– Round 65 : 1ch, 1sc in 80sc, close round in first sc, cut yarn and cast off.

chart robin hood

Finishing the arrows

– The ‘arrow lines’ are crocheted onto the bag, by making slipstitches in a different colour. This method will also be used to make the colour accents in the upper parts of the arrows.
– If you think this is too difficult for you (but in fact it is quite easy) : You can also embroider these accents.
 – ARROW LINES :
– Take crochet hook and green yarn. Take bag in front of you, right side facing, put yarn UNDERNEATH your bag, and hold crochet hook ABOVE bag. Pick up a stitch with your crochet hook (so insert in bag, en pick up the yarn from below), in the center of the first 3sc of upper part of an arrow. (if necessary : take a look underneath bag to search yarn, once you know how to do it, it will be easy). Now work a straight line of slipstitches, one stitch by one stitch, to the lower part of the arrow. Once you get in the center part of the lower arrow part, cut yarn, cast off and weave in end securely along back side.
– do this for all 3 arrows.
 – COLOUR ACCENTS :
– For every arrow : make colour accents in dark brown and camel at upper sides of arrow.
– Take your bag, right side up, crochet hook above bag, thread underneath. Start in upper part of 1 arrow : insert hook high in upper part and you’re your way down by slipstitching 1 stitch at a time. Next work 1slst straight to the side, and afterwards up again. (for the dark brown lines I used 5 stitches down, 1 to the side and 5 up again. For the camel stripes, I worked 7 stitches down, 1 to the side and 7 up again). At the end, cut yarn and cast off and weave in ends securely.
– Do this for all 3 arrows.

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Flaps for the large strap

Info :
– make 2 identical straps
– 1ch DOES NOT COUNT as 1sc, you work the first sc IN the first stitch, where 1ch is as well.
 – Row 1 : Ch10, start in 2nd ch : 1sc in every ch : 9sc, turn. (9sc)
 – Row 2 : 1ch, 1sc in every sc : 9sc, turn. (9sc)
 – Row 3 : 1ch, 1sc in every sc : 9sc, DO NOT TURN. (9sc)
 – FINISHING ROUND : Turn your work 1 quarter turn to the right, so you can crochet on the short sides : 1ch, 1slst in 3 stitches, you are at the corner now (where first sc is), work another slst in this stitch, turn 1 quarter turn again, 1slst in 8sc, you have reached another corner, make 1 more slst in last slst made, turn, 1slst in 3 stitches on second short side, another extra slst in last stitch made, and end with 1slst in 8 base chains, close round with 1slst in first slst, cut yarn and cast off.
 – Finishing : With slst finishing row facing, fold flap in 2, put ring in it and sew bottom part securely.
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Finishing body of the bag

 – Edging for the body of the bag : Work 1 round of sc around bag opening with dark brown : cast on at 1 side with 1slst, and work 1sc in every stitch, all around bag opening. Close round with 1slst in first sc, cut yarn and cast off.
 – Insert zipper : Take bag in front of you, right side facing. Now carefully pin zipper in bag opening. Make sure to leave about 0,5 cm-0,8 cm between your crochet work and the zipper teethc. Sew in by hand carefully, but thoroughly. (I will add a tutorial in a few days in a separate blogpost).
– Attaching flaps to the bag : Take 1 flap in front of you, right side facing. Take 1 D-ring. Fold flap double with D-ring in it. Sew bottom part securely. Next attach flap to 1 side of the bag. Sew on wrong side of the bag. Make sure TO STAY AWAY from upper crocheted row of bag. (see pictures : where you can see the pins in the bag : these stitches NEED TO BE FREE, so sew below! We will be needing these upper stitches for the piping later.
– Attaching sides to the body of the bag and making the piping :
– Important for those who want to make a lining later : measure your sides before attaching them onto the bag. (measure the correct diameter).
– Take the body of the bag and 1 side part, both right sides facing : these parts will now be crocheted TOGETHER with sc. This will be very easy because both parts have the same amount of stitches. Take colour dark brown and cast on with 1slst on body of bag next to the attached flap. Now start crocheting body of bag together with 1 side part by inserting in body of bag AND in side part and making sc stitches. Work all around until you reach the flap. Next pull flap a bit to the back and work sc only on body of bag for a few stitches until you reach the first sc made. Close round with 1slst in first sc. Next chain 1 and turn your bag so you can start working on the back side of where the flap is : on the side. Pull flap a bit away from you and work sc on last unworked stitches of side. Next close again in first stitch after flap. 1ch and turn your work again and make a second round of sc onto first round. Cut yarn and cast off. Do this also for second side.

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Long strap (140 cm long – 56 inches long)

 – Row 1 : Chain 171, start in 2nd ch : 1sc in every ch : 170sc, turn.
 – Row 2 – 11 : 1ch, 1sc in every sc, turn. (170sc). At the end of row 11, cut yarn and cast off.
 – Attaching strap to the bag :
– Put the strap through both D-ring on the bag, make sure it is not twisted. Next close strap by slipstitching short sides together
– Fold strap in 2, long sides together, make sure closing seam is on the inside. Work 1 round of sc in camel around both sides of the strap. So along 1 side you crochet 2 folded parts together, and along the other side work sc in the ‘fold’. Cut yarn, cast off and weave in ends.

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Finishing

– weave in all ends.
– soak your bag in Eucalan for about 15 minutes, block bag nicely and allow to dry
– Ready!
– Option : add a lining. (I will post a tutorial in a few days in a separate blogpost)

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Annelies Baes

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